The Epicurious Wanderers!

Lagos Titicaca – Isla Suasi

Early start today, we’re downstairs and ready to go by 6.30am. This must be the coldest morning we’ve had, even I’ve got my beanie on. It’s a 10 minute trip to the harbour where after waiting around for 15 minutes or so we board our boat. We head out onto the lake, at 3800m, it’s the highest navigable body of water on earth.DSC_1401-800x530

After picking up a few more passengers we head off to our first stop, the floating islands. There are many of these, each with it’s own way of doing things.  We stop at Uros Island, where we were greeted by the president’s wife, lovely woman with a huge smile. DSC_1410-800x530Then the President himself told us about the islands and how they are constructed.  It’s a very physical process, first they have to cut blocks of the reeds from the vast beds. Each block is around 5x7m, you need at least 4 to create an island.  DSC_1421-530x800These are then floated back to where you wish to build where they are lashed together,  then layers of reeds are used to cover this floating platform. The reed blocks are about 1m deep, the layer of reeds is about 2m, each layer of reeds is place at 90° angles to form a stable base. The whole structure is then anchored to the lake bad so it doesn’t float away. As the president says you don’t want to wake up in Bolivia.  They then build smaller platforms another metre high to act as a foundation for their homes. These are formed again from reeds, although now corrugated iron sheets are also being incorporated into some.

Delia, the president’s wife, invites us into their house. It’s one room, 2x3m, with a bed at one end and small sitting area near the door.  They make use of solar panels now for electricity which provides light and tv, previouklsly it was oil lamps. Their children share a smaller hut next door. All cooking is done outside on  stone platform,  you can’t cook directly on the island or you’ll burn it away. As we leave the islands we stop to look at their crafts, the already groaning suitcases get yet more added to them.DSC_1424-800x530

Next stop is Taquile Island where we saw a display of Ketchua cultural dance as well as hearing about the lifestyle of the people. The women are the weavers, their work is amazing, the detail is so intricate. The men complete incredible knitting work. All of this is accomplished without a single recorded pattern, the designs are passed down from generation to generation through hands on skill.DSC_1492-800x530DSC_1517-800x530

From here it’s on to Suasi Island…… mmm, i think we’ve found paradise.  Suasi is a private island,  only taking small numbers at a time. DSC_1560-800x530We arrived in time for lunch, a bbq overlooking Lake Titicaca.  Sitting on the cliff over the lake with the wine we purchased in Puno is like nothing we’ve ever experienced.  Helen, Raul and I manage a few bottles while admiring the view and just relaxing. There is no wifi, no tv, no radio here, the island runs entirely on solar energy. The place is a paradise… our room opens onto a terrace overlooking the lake, all you can hear is silence… the sunset is coming and the woodfire will soon be lit. Words can say no more, hopefully our pictures tell the tale.DSC_1544-800x530DSC_1591-800x530

This is the perfect end to our time in Peru, as tomorrow we return to Puno, then it’s on to Bolivia for us